Remember - 80% of paddle making happens in just a few hours. That final 20%, like so many
other things in life, is what takes the time. I never say paddle making is hard. To me, what's
hard is that woodworking in general requires patience and allowing for time in between steps or
taking time to double check something. A typical American lifestyle is rush rush hurry hurry.
Making something from wood with your hands often requires a slower approach and that can be
a significant head space game for many people :)
ENJOY yourself! however you go about your paddlemaking project!
Q: Why wood?
A: For me, I like the feel of wood in my hands. I like the warmth. I love the color of wood and how it
looks under epoxy or varnish. wavetrainSUP paddles aim to be both art and function. When I'm not
using it, it hangs on the wall and looks good. I feel good knowing that I made it.
I also like the fact that a wood shaft can be shaped to fit your grip. When you grip something like
a paddleshaft your hand makes more of an egg shape than a circle shape. Yet mass-built paddleshafts are
exactly that - a circular shape. That is because it is easy to engineer and mass produce a round shaft. Walmart likes that kind of stuff. NOT because a
circular shaft fits your hand. Your grip tends to be oblong or elliptical. Not round. Using a spokeshave,
your hands and your eyes, you can make the shaft into more of an oblong profile that matches your
grip more closely than a standard store bought paddle.
And so we get to carbon fiber. Strong. Durable. Light. All true. At the end of the day though,
when I am out paddling I am in nature on a hand-made wood paddleboard. For me, a stringy piece of
bizarre chemical in my hands does not fit that picture as well as a wood paddle does.
Paddling anything is good, especially if the alternative is eating Cap'n Crunch watching Dr. Phil.
So get out and paddle. When so doing I just happen to prefer wood over carbon fiber.
Q: Why a kit?
A: With a wavetrainsup kit, you get the wood strips and the blade pieces precut and ready to use.
You don't need to own, borrow, impose on a neighbor, or use a table saw or a band saw
to first rip the pieces from a bigger (and very expensive btw) piece of lumber. You don't need to
stand a three+ inch tall piece on edge against a rip fence to rip it and get the blade
pieces cut down to size.
You also get a form for laminating the shaft strips and introducing
the bend into the shaft, all in one soop fwell, as they say in Duluth (MN, that is - not sure how
they say it in Georgia). The form has been pre-assembled and the parts all numbered for easy
re-assembly. In addition to making it easy to laminate and bend the shaft strips, the form is easily
portable. When it's time to eat, just pick it up off the kitchen counter and put it on the table
in the living room (with one hand I might add).
In addition, you don't have to buy the entire piece of lumber in
order to get just a few pieces. You get enough wood for TWO paddles. You don't have to
store the leftover wood or throw it away (gasp..but you wouldn't do that would you?). Likewise,
you will not have to deal with 7/8 of a quart of left over epoxy in a large container with sticky
leaks down the side.
Did I mention not needing the space or all the big expensive tools
to cut the wood?
Finally, with a kit you get mixing cups, brushes, stir sticks,
and wax paper that make 'the making' easier. All the utility stuff you need is in the kit, you don't
have to go hunt for it, or borrow it from your neighbor.
Q: What about the angle of the shaft to the blade?
Kind of a big question here, maybe more like three questions. Let me spill some virtual ink on these
multiple parts. I would also point out that this is my opinion, based on my own experience. If you are
a former competitive paddler with Olympic experience like some paddle company owners then you likely
think and build a certain way. If you're a former guide in the BWCA and a flyfisherman, camera
enthusiast and an in general ‘enjoyer’ of the water you will also likely have an opinion.
A1: First is curve versus a join. wavetrainSUP paddles
are made in a form with a ramp that imparts a bend to the shaft, one piece at a time. The kits come with
that same form and ramp. The only other style I've seen is laminating the shaft AND THEN cutting the shaft at an angle. The short piece of
shaft is then somehow rejoined with the long piece making an angle, a corner, NOT, in my opinion,
a bend. Both styles work. I think there is a mechanical strength advantage to a bend with continuous pieces
of wood going throught the bend, but more than that, I like how it looks. A slice and dice will likely be strong
enough as well, I think it comes down to stylistic preference. Some like bends and some like angles, as long
as you are out paddling with it, I'm happy!
A2: Second is the angle of the bend/corner. I
like 12 degrees. Will you even notice the difference between 11 and 13? Unlikely in real and pleasant
usage. Maybe with some sensitive measuring equipment in a wave pool. Does it really matter? Unless you
are a sponsored racer focussed on racing, I think you'll find the angle of the blade to the shaft
UNimportant. In my paddling, I find technique to be of primary importance, e.g.
keeping the shaft vertical during the stroke, keeping the stroke out in front of me, NEVER behind me
, and always trying to use big back/core muscles and NOT little arm muscles. I do find the exercise
of imagining the paddle to be stuck in cement out in front of me and pulling the board UP to the stuck
paddle RATHER than pulling the paddle back to me - to be quite helpful.
A3: I feel the bend does one thing that makes
it worthwhile - it encourages you to get the paddle and your power out in front of you. In theory then and
related to the power part of the stroke being out in front of you, your stroke should end pretty much
at your hip pocket. Force should not be applied to the paddle once the blade is past vertical and/or
Finally, the ramp that comes with the wavetrainSUP form is cut with a 12 degree
angle to it. However, if you feel strongly about this angle, we
will provide a ramp cut to your own specified angle at no extra charge.
Q: How much does a wood paddle weigh?
A: A Solid Citizen usually comes in right around 16 ounces. Maybe 17. Weight varies depending on
wood type and paddle length. How much epoxy goes into the cloth on the blade is a factor as well.
My every day SUP paddle weighs two (2) lbs and one ounce. I used pine for the blades, cedar and aspen
for the shaft and a bunch of scraps for the handle.
In my experience, the biggest factor in weight is the weight of the paddler. Dropping ten pounds off
the paddler will change the board performance more than virtually anything you do on the paddle.
I have never finished an outing and gone home wishing I had a lighter paddle. Many times though,
I have arrived at home and
sworn off the late night bowls of Cap'n Crunch.
Paddlers are on a curve. At one end is the competitive 'race crowd'.
They cut their shoelaces in half and strip half the hydrogen ions off their water to save weight.
That's what they're into. More power to'em. Others build their own boards and wear size 36s
(maybe 38s) when they're not
Wood paddles are never going to be the lightest, but I find mine to
be light enough. There's a whole vast flyover part of the USA that simply gets out and enjoys
the water. No racing needed. You decide what you're into - shaving weight off equipment or
getting something in your hand that you made yourself and feels good. You might also think
about the impact of the chemicals used in making a plastic or carbon fiber paddle. We're all
on a spectrum. No matter where you put yourself on that spectrum, just make sure you're
putting yourself on the water on a regular basis!
Finally keep in mind that a store bought paddle is going to be black
and round. Not much custom unless you count the sticker you throw on the blade. In building your own,
you can select all sorts of different options to make your paddle the only one of its kind. And yes,
I can print on rice paper and makle a sticker for the blade if you really want one.
Q: I have no wood working experience. Can I do this?
A: Yes. Like so many other things in life, your first paddle making project might be a little rough
around the edges. In which case, use that first paddle a few times, figure out what you want to change,
and then go back and make the second paddle. The second paddle will be immensely better than the first
and now you will have a spare paddle. I'm not claiming to be the world's expert, but I can demonstrate
some basic paddle making concepts. I have confidence and experience with those basics. The intent behind
this kit and the ‘basics’ is to give a good starting point. Get through your first paddle.
Then, once you have a little perspective, change things up and go your own way.
P.S. You can also build a few with pine and Titebond III and THEN move 'up' to the expensive stuff.
Q: Are wood paddles fragile?
A: If you try hard enough to break something you can do it. I have not yet broken a wooden SUP or
canoe paddle. But - I don't surf (living in Wisconsin makes that a non-issue), I don't jam the tip in
between rocks, I don't slam it in car doors, and my kids are old enough to know how to handle a paddle.
Just like a fly rod. Nothing lasts forever though, and accidents do happen. That is part of the reason
why the kits feature enough wood for two paddles.
Lots of 'eventful' things can happen in whitewater. Most of it is fun, but
paddles can and do break. Please keep in mind that bent shaft paddles are not really intended for use
in whitewater. It is more difficult to draw and pry (two CRITICAL maneuvers) with a bent shaft in
whitewater. It is better to use a straight shaft paddle in whitewater, not because it is stronger, but
because a straight shaft is a more versatile paddle for maneuvering your craft, whatever it may be,
through whitewater. Also, a bent shaft paddle is pretty much one way, whereas a straight shaft paddle
can generally be used either way and the handle can be held either way.
If a straight shaft
is what you are after, no worries. This very same kit can be used to make a straight shaft paddle from
the same components.
Q: Does the shape of the blade make a huge difference?
A: It might, but in my opinion blade shape does not make a big difference. I model my personal paddle blades
after the canoe paddles that I have. For me, no rocket science is involved. So far, my limiting factors are human
and not so much board or paddle. However, to each their own. Paddlemaking is a pleasurable pursuit, so go with what you
like. Each kit comes with two sets of blade blanks, so you can try two different sizes (blade surface area) or
styles (changing the blade profile). The widths are the same. This means you can make a blade narrower by doing
your own shaping. YOu can go wider by adding a wider inner blade piece between the big blade piece and the shaft.
IF you want a wider blade than our stock blanks offer, just give us a call and we can most likely cook up a wider
width. Give us a call if you feel strongly about a different blade profile and we can most likely cut it for you,
so that it arrives to you, ready to go, no further cutting needed.
Here I might point out that building
pine paddles is a MUCH cheaper option if you are into experimenting with blade area and profile.
Pine is much cheaper and far more abundant than western red cedar.
Finally, my personal experience is that a ‘normal blade’ lessens the risk of shoulder injury by
lessening the resistance per stroke and therefore lessening the strain on your shoulders in what, after all, is
a highly repetitive motion. That normal blade lends itself well to a paddling cadence that is fairly quick. I
think a fast cadence is better than a slow one, which is what you get as you try to work a larger blade through
Perfecting your stroke is a lifetime endeavor. Stretching out in front of you and
pulling the board up to your paddle AND THEN stopping the motion when your low hand reaches your pocket is
the motion I keep in mind. All sorts of 'not good' things can happen if you continue the paddling motion once
your low hand is behind you.
Q: What tools do you use?
A: First of all, I ALWAYS use the same metal ruler, silver with black printing. Good contrast easy
to see the numbers and the tic marks. FAR better than a tape measure. I try never to
mix and match using the ruler and a tape measure on the same piece of wood.
I use a mix of tools, both electric and hand-powered. Ripping shaft strips
almost has to be done with a table saw and a shart blade, while shaping the shaft is best done with hand
tools. For shaping I use a Surform, spokeshave, block planes, rasp, and sand paper. I by far prefer the
quiet of hand tools, but there's no getting away from the fast, smooth, and straight cuts a table saw can make.
The table saw and band saw are a big part of paddle making and kit manufacturing.
With table saws - a sharp blade makes a huge difference! If you have not had your blade sharpened, or you use cheap blades,
go get your blade sharpened or buy a new blade. A new (or sharp) blade feels like you just bought a new saw!
A good fence is an absolute as well. Dust collection is nice,
although dust still gets all over. If the blade is dull the dust will really be dust, if the blade is
sharp, it tends to make 'chips' rather than dust, the chips fall to the ground instead of floating in
the air. Finally, it's my experience that ripping wil make way more dust than chips regardless of blades sharpness.
I really like my Japanese pull saw. Kind of a funky handle and a thin flexible blade. It cuts
on the 'pull' rather than the 'push', which is what American saws do. Use one a few times and you'll be hooked
on it! Spokeshave and block plane come next. A scraper set is always out on the workbench. Bench dogs and a
'hold down' both make bracing and holding the wood fairly easy. Be sure and use the correct bit size when drilling
the holes for the bench dog. I use sandpaper when nothing else will work. 100 grit for the occasional rough
piece, down to 220 grit for sanding between coats of varnish.
Q: What if I do something wrong?
A: There is no right or wrong here. There are no rules requiring you to do this or that.
There are some things that work better than others, but there is plenty of room for individual
preference and pleasure. Your mileage may vary depending on tools, experience AND PATIENCE.
One of the possibilities with material for two paddles is that you make the first paddle realizing
that it is the first one. Making the first one will show many things that will lead to a much better
second paddle. In our technology filled world, some pursuits like woodworking, are best learned by
doing and by repetition. There really is not a shortcut, other than buying a ready made paddle.
Q: I cut the fiberglass and it is too narrow or, the fiberglass cloth in the
kit is too narrow! How to fix this??
A: To start, I cut the cloth in a rectangular piece. The blade is a teardrop shape. That means there
is a fair amount of cloth that gets cut away from the blade. I use the cut off scrap and recut that
to fit the spot that is uncovered by the original cloth.
Q: I've done some woodworking before. Can I modify the kit I order, if I
already have pieces I want to use?
A: Yes, I am happy to modify a kit. Most often this means someone likes glue or they have leftover
epoxy from a boatbuilding project. I have built a few Titebond III (not II, it's not
quite up to snuff wrt being waterproof) glue paddles and they have held together so far. So I give
Titebond III a cautious thumbs up. However, I don't sell it. It's easy enough to leave something out
of a kit, just email or call and we can set it up. Always better to use what you have in lieu of ordering
more. Unless of course you run out before you are done with your project. Make a good estimate!
Q: What to do for the final finish?
A1: The 2nd edition of the book (which I'm gonna finish soon - I swear!), on paddlemaking,
covers this final finish in beaucoup detail.
A2: Broadly speaking it comes down to oil or varnish. Personally, I'm a sucker for Captain Z's
Spar varnish. I've just started doing oiled shafts, so I can't write much about them, except to note
they are popular.
The knock on varnish seems to be that if your hands get wet, that a varnished
surface and wet hands sets up a scene where wet hands stick (for lack of a better word) to the shaft and
cause blisters and irritation. My hands are wet quite often when I paddle and I can't say I've noticed
this. But - I switch hands all the time so it's not like I hold one position for very long. I paddle and
stop quite a bit to smell those watery roses. Often I'll sit down and paddle while seated. So, I think
my paddling style negates this issue, but your mileage may vary.
My point is that the mythical 'long hard day' of constant paddling might
inspire this problem, much like running a marathon can cause a blister. But, other than three loonies
canoeing in the Quetico with their heads down determined to cross the entire park in one day, no one I
know paddles all that hard and non-stop. Here in flyover country most of the lakes aren't big enough
for an epic all day pain session paddling against the odds. I find paddling to be about getting out and
enjoying the water, which is kind of the antithesis of the frenetic, heads down, go-hard style that is
needed to inspire blisters and skin friction on varnish. Remember - this is basically a leisurely pastime.
Adding timed contests to paddleboarding merely brings to your recreation what you have to deal with in your
work life. Leave work parameters at work. Feel free to lolligag while out paddleboarding!
In short, I've not had a problem with a varnished wood surface on my
paddles. I like how it looks, I like the UV protection that it adds, and I like the minimal
coloring that Captain Z's adds to the wood. The wood surface changes very little.
A3: A varnished surface is non-trivial. It's not exactly rocket science either,
but it takes some attention and care to achieve a smooth surface. A loaded brush with a tip that stays
wet and heavy is a big help. I find pulling the brush in one direction (no back and forth) and stopping
to 'reload' the brush so that varnish is always 'flowing' out of the brush and onto the wood surface to
be about 80% of the drill. Move the brush somewhat slowly, so the varnish has time to 'ooze' out of the
brush reservoir and onto the wood. It's a decent little learning curve that mostly requires patience
(not that much though). As soon as you see a dry spot happen behind the brush, stop and load the brush again,
and resume at the dry spot.
I use one inch wide chip brushes for the varnishing. The same brushes I use
for move the epoxy around on the fiberglass. I know it's a sin on the environment, but these chip brushes
are cheap enough that I throw them away after one coat. No cleaning and no reuse. Let them harden and then
throw away. I would put forth an argument that avoiding the use of solvents (and its disposal) and the
use of water to clean a cheap brush offsets the impact of throwing them away.
'Bounced' light makes it easy to see the dry spots on the wood surface,
so be sure and have a couple lights that you can put at an angle to your wood surface. You will soon
see how this makes solid clear varnish pop versus a dry spot.
What to do with varnish over epoxy is a frequent question. The answer is
put the varnish right over the epoxy just like it's bare wood. In fact, this is a great symbiotic
relationship here. The epoxy provides a good substrate for the varnish, while the varnish gives the
epoxy some much needed UV protection.
One coat is never enough. The first coat is ALWAYS going to be rough. Also,
forced air heating, or heated shop air full of dust will definitely drop minute particles onto the
varnished surface. I use 180 and 220 grit on this first coat to 'knock' the rough stuff down. The goal
is 'knocking down' not complete removal of what you just did. This is another instance where a refined
patient behavior will go much further than the frequent heavy handed impatient approach that many people
(myself included) exhibit. Being a reformed knuckle dragger, I will confess that this 'slow down and enjoy' the
process is a hard learned lesson, that I still often fail to heed. The point of sanding is not to remove
the varnish you just applied. The point of sanding is to remove JUST enough - and no more-
of the varnished surface to make it smooth!
There's a certain 'Zen' to woodworking. This is a leisure pursuit just like
paddling. It's when you rush and/or your attention span is frazzled that mistakes happen! A view to enjoying
what you are doing, rather than rushing through it is critical. You will experience this urge to hurry up
and finish sooner rather than later...grasshopper. And then you'll know what you need to do. I think this
is in large part how coffee breaks and happy hours were invented. People realized they needed to slow
down and reset their attention span before they messed something up...end rant back to topic...
The second coat flows on much easier. After the first coat I only use 220.
For me, three coats is typical. You'll find (at least I do STILL) that holding the paddle in such a way
that you can apply varnish to all surface is a big challenge, closely followed by applying enough varnish
for that 'wet' look but not so much varnish that it drips and runs. Much of woodworking is experiential.
You don't know what to do until you have experienced, e.g. 'the run' for the first time and then you
know what to do the second time around, which is a big reason that each kit contains enough wood for TWO
Remember - 80% of paddle making happens in just a few hours. That final 20%, like so many other things
in life, is what takes the time. I never say paddle making is hard. To me, what's hard is that
woodworking in general requires patience and allowing for time in between steps or taking time to
double check something. A typical American lifestyle is rush rush hurry hurry. Making something from
wood with your hands often requires a slower approach and that can be a significant head space game
for many people :)
yourself! however you go about your paddlemaking project!
last updated May 11, 2018